I am in the midst of planning my return to Asia in early March, and I stumbled upon some more notes I made during my time in Tibet in the fall. It happened to be November 4, and while my fellow Americans were preparing to go to the polls I was arriving in upper Tibet.
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I bought this notebook from a little Chinese stationery shop. It is “Brilliant New Century” brand. It is early morning and I write from under four layers of blanket in a tent on the shores of Nam Tsho. Yesterday we left Lhasa and headed north, stopping along the way. Fist we stopped at Yangpachen monastery, the Sharmapa’s seat. This place has been in the midst of controversy, and Shamar Rinpoche’s challenge of the recognition of the 17th Karmapa rings strongly in my mind. It is situated at a bend in the valley on a hillside they say is like the back of an elephant. Hot springs nearby are capitalized upon for Chinese tourism and geothermal electricity. I am there to deliver a hello from a friend in America to the monks. They say there are around 60 monks, but I don’t see many around. I see a few, and a few villagers, whitewashing the walls in front. Prayer wheels are stacked in the courtyard, awaiting some kind of refurbishing or construction. Ruins of other monastery buildings surround the main assembly hall, and lie between the hall and a brand new Chinese-built shedra (monastery school) next-door. We visit only briefly and then head on.
Next stop was a village outside Damshung, where some of our driver’s family lives. We have tea and thukpa, and reject half a sheep’s worth of mutton that they wanted to sell us, at some outrageous price. (The driver’s brother in law brought in the whole sheep’s rear half and chopped it longitudinally beginning at the rear.) As we leave, the sister stands by the stone wall, daughter hanging around nearby – the youngest of 3 children, maybe 5 years old. I touch my forehead to the grandmother’s in the traditional way and she breaks into peals of laughter.
I crave news from home, though everyone is more interested in where I am than the other way around.
Nobody was stopping traffic at the entrance to the pass to Nam Tsho to collect entry fees. Not surprising, as the road has been mostly closed recently, with heavy early-season snows. On the road last night, an eagle swooped across the windswept snowy plain. Two yaks in the road faced us. We pitched our camp by the lake shore between the two halves of Tashi Do headland, our spot windy and sacred, just behind a mani wall. The sunset arched over the western headland as we set up tents. At 15,000 feet, I am acclimatizing again. I sleep here higher than I have ever ventured before.
It is a quiet morning. Election day in America. I wonder what is happening, which polls will come in first. I write, under four layers and on top of five. In this high mountain place, I finally feel free – standing (sitting) on my own. Yet here everyone must depend on each other for survival. (Why was man created so helpless, such that we must kill and wear other animals to stay warm?) Perhaps it is that innate sense of interdependence that allows for the feeling of freedom. The Tibetans are an unembarrassed people. The language doesn’t handle the concept of self-esteem. Yet they are struggling to maintain their identity as a people; even the local handicrafts are made in Chinese factories. It makes me want to help people be good leaders. Somehow it seems like a piece of the puzzle that would be helpful, to help individuals find new ways to solve problems and compromise. I write small in this journal, as though I will fill it up quickly, but I doubt I will. Soon the day will begin, weather moving in and work to do.